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9/14/2018

Pattern Review - Simplicity 8561 & 8560

Have you ever made a pattern and realized that you horribly messed it up by choosing the wrong fabric?

I have!

That's the story with this pattern. Well, actually patterns. Today is a two-for-one deal where I'm actually reviewing two patterns.

So we all know that exercise clothes can leave a lot to be desired when it comes to fit, colors, patterns, and most importantly pockets!

I do love that more and more styles of leggings are coming in longer lengths and we're seeing more and more pockets, but (isn't there always a but?) the only leggings that come in long lengths are the ankle length leggings. Don't get me wrong, it's great that I can finally get leggings long enough so that I don't have to layer socks over my ankles to keep them warm, but the problem I have is that they don't make capris in long length. It's so awesome to buy capri-length leggings and have them hit me just below the knee. I know, I know, capris are supposed to hit below the knee, but let's clarify - they're supposed to hit several inches below the knee not right at the back of my knee, would it kill a store to make some long length capris? So there's the crux of my legging problem. I want me-length capris that are cute.
Look at all the options! 

Enter the first pattern I'm reviewing - Simplicity 8560

There are a couple of looks to choose from on this pattern, but the one I was interested in was the view with those killer deep thigh pockets. POCKETS! Can you guys feel my excitement over these pockets?

So now that I'm done gushing about those killer pockets, it was also nice that the inset was finished off with some fun twists at the end.

Unfortunately the first time I made this pattern I used a super fun contrast fabric for the inset, and that fabric was perfectly fine. Just a lightweight athletic knit that I found on fabric.com. Luckily, I ordered enough of the fabric to get a few things made out of it. The main fabric, however, was a different story. It had some lateral stretch, no vertical stretch and I would definitely not classify it as a suitable knit for athletic wear, but that's where I found it - listed under athletic fabric. Oh well, that's the danger of buying fabric online. I much prefer visiting a store and being able to feel the fabric and see how it moves, flows, and stretches.

Even though the fabric choice was less than stellar for both patterns, I knew that these patterns were gonna be great, so a trip to Jo-Ann's fixed my main fabric woes. They have this great black refined Ponte (pon-tee) knit. It's so great that I've gone back and bought more of it. I really love this fabric. Jo-Ann's does carry a couple different types of Ponte knit, but this particular one is thicker than some of the others, but it's not as thick as a scuba knit. So now that I have the proper fabric, I'm super excited to get these patterns made again.

As with most knit patterns, cutting it out takes as long as sewing it up. Actually, altering the pattern to be the proper length for capri-length leggings for me is the most time-consuming part of this process, and I will admit that I was a little over-zealous with the lengthening. I think I should have only added 3" instead of 4", but c'est la vie!
Look at those twists!

So the guide sheet is straight-forward and offers some tips/tricks for knits and athletic wear. Most of the pattern can be sewn up on the serger which makes it super quick and easy. I topstitched most of the seams with a zig-zag stitch. The most complicated part of this pattern are the twists at the bottom of the leg. I would say to double-check which way you twist those things because there may or may not be a twist on my leggings that isn't going the same way as the other 5.

For once, I was really smart and cut out several things at once. So once I got the leggings done, I could move right on to the sports bra, Simplicity 8561.

The first time I made the sports bra I was nervous because other than bathing suits, I've never made a bra and let's be honest a sports bra is not the same thing as a bikini top. I am glad I had the practice on the terrible fabric while making the bra. The inset on the bra took a bit to finagle and get it right, but the second version came out much better. Of course, having the new perfect fabric was also a huge help.
Even the back is fun!

So the bra is super simple to assemble. All of the pieces are sized just like the bras you buy in the store, so it's not like you need to know an alternate size like you do for regular patterns. I was nervous when I remade the pattern because the first bra was so tight and uncomfortable, but I knew it was because of my horrible fabric choice. So the 2nd one was much better, but definitely not a running sports bra. I think when I make this bra again (and I will) I may make it a size smaller. I should have probably done that from the get-go. Just going with a smaller band size might work too.

I took a class a while ago about designing your own exercise clothes, and the teacher advised that you could/should make the clothes a size smaller if you want the clothes to be more form-fitting and have a more compressive feel. I do love me some compression tights, but for the legging pattern, I'm perfectly happy with how tight they are, especially since I have gained a little bit of weight back since the surgery. Not a whole lot mind you, but enough to where I notice that my clothes are fitting slightly different. I would go with a smaller size for the bra though. There is a bit of wiggle room and while that might be ok for yoga, I will be running again and I don't really feel like getting whacked in the face by my own bosom.
You can't even tell which is the busted leg. 
I would definitely suggest this pattern to someone who is ready to branch out into knits and/or exercise clothes. I get it. Knits can be scary, and so can exercise clothes, but these two patterns are well written and easy to follow. I don't know that I'd recommend these patterns to an out-of-the-gate novice, but to someone who has sewn for a bit and is ready for a new challenge. I would recommend though that if these patterns end up being your first foray into sewing knits then make them in a cheaper knit. I wouldn't go with a slub knit, but maybe a decent cotton interlock, because the athletic knits can get pricey and you don't want to go experimenting on expensive fabric only to mess it up.
I couldn't resist sharing this goofy pic!

Thanks so much for stopping by!

6 comments:

  1. Hi, loved the blog post! Your creations look so professional
    I was just wondering what kind of fabric you ended up using to make the sports bra? I'm making this currently and my fabric has the required cross wise stretch but it's coming out too short and i'm wondering if despite the pattern, whether i also need stretch in the other direction?
    I've also done some measuring and reading of the pattern closely and am finding the band is not big enough for the elastic the pattern specifies! did you also find this or have i gone wrong somewhere?
    Have a wonderful day! x

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    Replies
    1. Hi Megan!

      Sports bras are a PITA. the first one I made had no crosswise stretch and I thought it might be ok, but it fit like a straightjacket. The subsequent ones have had 4-way stretch of at least 25% and they fit better, but honestly, I can't wear them running because the girls bounce too much still. They're perfect for low impact exercise though. I tend to use active/performance type fabric, but I have been known to use a swimsuit fabric if the print is just too perfect to pass up. I would suggest lining them though. I use a power mesh or a stiff swimsuit lining and that has helped immensely.

      The elastic problem you mentioned, is it going in the band or are you attaching the elastic directly to the body of the bra? If the elastic goes into the band, then I would check that you're cutting the elastic to the elastic guide and the band from the band guide. I've made that mistake and wondered where I went wrong only to realize my mistake after a good bit of frustration. If you're certain that you've got the correct pieces, I would alter the pattern to what is needed and then go from there. I have seen pattern printing errors where pieces are not as long as they should be because of a printing error.

      I hope that this helps and let me know how it goes!

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    2. Thanks for the reply! :) Hmm okay, i will try making it out of a 4 way stretch fabric and maybe see if i can adjust the pattern for the fabric i have and make it a bit bigger. ooh okay, did you line them in addition to the facing in the pattern?

      The elastic is going in the band. So i've definitely cut the band piece right but the part i seem to be having issues is with the width! What width of elastic did you use?
      The pattern envelope says to use 1 1/2 " wide elastic but i can't see how this will ever fit in the casing. The width of the elastic guide is 1" though, is this actually what I should be using?
      Yeah I might just increase the width of the casing piece so i can make it work but i'm just trying to figure out why it doesn't!

      Thanks so much for your help! :)

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    3. I did add the lining in addition to the facing. I noticed a difference in how secure the "girls" felt.

      I used 1½" but didn't encase it on this bra. I have made other versions of the bras in the pattern and I used 1" - probably because of what you're describing. I also have a lot of it in my stash. I noticed on the bras with the elastic encased, I didn't find the bands particularly comfortable.

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    4. Ohh okay that's interesting! I have a lining fabric in a spandex blend so i might consider doing that then. That's why i originally wanted to use scuba since it's got more structure but the spandex blends i have are so thin

      I see, that makes sense! hmm maybe i'll buy some prettier elastic and sew it directly on then!

      Thank you!

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    5. I would think scuba fabric would be great as a bra fabric. I'd only worry about the stretch, but structure-wise it'd be amazing. Let me know how it all turns out!

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